I took the car for a drive today (first time driving the car) with the FPCM connected, leaving my subdivision I checked to see if I could powerbrake the car (which it normally won't do), I was able to easily break the tires loose, going down the road the car took it's time to get up to speed as it normally does. However we care about fuel psi which is result.this way you can blip throttle to check regulator and damper at the same time The FSM explains shows where what voltage ECU supplies FPCU for each mode.

Just part of prorated $3k in annual expense. I also replaced controller at 220k after some weird engine cut offs finally no crank situation. I always keep a spare FPCU and jumper clips in trunk as I changed pumps at 140k and 220k. The WOT acceleration or at least half throttle mode is rarely used so less stressed vs the idle/cruise mode is continuous.slow burn and failure after years and years if the pump is not replaced when it slows down. The high and medium resistance modes usually fail first from higher than design currents from the pump turning so slow.thus the typical no crank situation. Usually it is the FP itself that turns low rpms because of commutator wear/corrosion and not the FPCU which fails to switch into least resistance mode for acceleration. The usual fast way to check is to T tap the fuel line feeding the injector rail and measure the psi under idle, cruise, and WOT all the way to redline while driving. The FP ground terminal goes to FPCU where it passes thru Transistors which act like a big three position resistor.

The fuel pump is supplied with +12 thru the fuel pump fuse and the on/off relay.

Bad fuel pump module